Hemis Festival

Deep in a canyon more than 3,000 metres above sea level, Ladakh's largest monastery celebrates the birthday of Guru Padmasambhava each year. Copper horns drone, cymbals crash, and lamas in fearsome animal masks and brocade robes turn slowly in the courtyard, dancing out the battle between good and evil. For two days, a quiet old gompa ringed by snow peaks becomes a theatre on the roof of the world.